Baseboard Calculator

Measure each wall at floor level where baseboard will install. Add all wall lengths for total linear feet. Subtract door openings (typically 3 feet per door). Do NOT subtract for floor vents or outlets. Measure around closets if installing baseboard inside. Check walls are straight - bowed walls need extra material. Add 10-15% waste for cuts and mistakes. Measure each room separately, don't assume rooms are perfectly rectangular.

Ceiling height determines baseboard size: 8-foot ceilings: 3-5 inch baseboard, 9-foot ceilings: 5-7 inch baseboard, 10+ foot ceilings: 7-9 inch baseboard. Proportion matters - match door casing width. Modern style: 3-4 inch simple profile. Traditional style: 5-7 inch ornate profile. Taller baseboards make rooms feel more elegant but cost more. Match existing baseboard height in adjacent rooms for consistency.

Standard door openings to subtract: Interior doors: 3 feet (36 inch door + casing), double doors: 6 feet, French doors: 5-6 feet, closet doors: 2-3 feet per door. Do NOT subtract for: Floor vents, electrical outlets, built-in furniture (may move later). Arched openings: Measure curved opening, may need flexible baseboard. Subtract full opening width including casing/trim on both sides. Better to slightly overestimate than run short.

Common baseboard materials: MDF ($0.50-1.50/ft): Smooth, paintable, moisture-sensitive, popular choice. Pine ($1-3/ft): Paintable, stainable, dents easily. Oak/Hardwood ($3-8/ft): Durable, beautiful grain, stainable. Vinyl/PVC ($1-2/ft): Waterproof, flexible, ideal for bathrooms. Composite ($1-2/ft): Pre-primed, stable, paintable. Match material to room - use moisture-resistant in bathrooms/kitchens/basements. MDF excellent for painted applications.

Tools needed: Miter saw for angled cuts, coping saw for inside corners, nail gun or hammer, measuring tape, pencil, level. Installation steps: 1) Start at longest wall, 2) Cut 45-degree miters for outside corners, 3) Cope inside corners (cut profile) for professional look, 4) Nail into studs 16 inches apart, 5) Fill nail holes with putty, 6) Caulk top edge and joints, 7) Paint or stain. Practice cuts on scrap pieces. Inside corners: Coping creates tighter fit than mitering.

Shoe molding (quarter round) covers gaps between baseboard and floor. Use when: Uneven floors create gaps, installed flooring after baseboards, want layered traditional look. Skip when: Perfect floor-to-baseboard fit, modern minimalist style, tall baseboards (5+ inches) make shoe molding look small. Shoe molding typically 0.75 inch, adds $0.30-0.80 per linear foot. Nail shoe molding to floor, not baseboard (allows wood floor to expand/contract).

Standard waste allowance: 10-15% for simple rectangular rooms, 15-20% for complex layouts or DIY projects. Waste factors: Each inside corner needs coped cut (practice cuts), outside corners need precise miters (test cuts), short pieces between doors/windows create scrap, mistakes and miscuts (especially for beginners), future repairs. Baseboard typically sold in 8, 12, or 16-foot lengths - plan cuts to minimize waste. Buy extra matching pieces for future repairs.

Installation sequence matters: Before flooring: Install baseboards 1/2 inch above subfloor, install flooring underneath, add shoe molding to cover gap. Advantages: Protects baseboard during floor install, cleaner look. After flooring: Measure and install baseboards on finished floor. Advantages: Exact fit, no shoe molding needed, easier to replace flooring later. Best practice: Hardwood/tile - install baseboards after. Carpet - install baseboards before (tuck carpet under). Laminate - install after, use matching trim.