Concrete Mix Calculator
Calculate precise concrete mix ratios and quantities for cement, sand, and gravel based on volume and desired strength.
What are the common concrete mix ratios?
Standard mix ratios (cement:sand:gravel by volume): 1:2:3 (M20 grade, 3000 PSI) - High strength for foundations, columns, beams. General purpose construction. 1:2:4 (M15 grade, 2500 PSI) - Medium strength for slabs, driveways, moderate loads. Most common residential. 1:3:6 (M10 grade, 1500 PSI) - Low strength for footings, mass concrete, non-structural. Economy mix. 1:1.5:3 (M25 grade, 3500 PSI) - Very high strength for heavy loads, commercial. Water-cement ratio: 0.4-0.6 by weight (critical for strength).
How much water should I add to concrete mix?
Water-cement ratio determines strength: 0.4 ratio (strongest): 4 gallons per 94 lb bag cement, difficult to work, needs vibration. 0.5 ratio (ideal): 5 gallons per bag, balance of strength and workability, most common. 0.6 ratio (workable): 6 gallons per bag, easier to pour but weaker. Rule: Less water = stronger concrete but harder to work. Too much water weakens concrete significantly (10% extra water = 20% strength loss). Add gradually, test slump (3-5 inch slump ideal). Hot weather needs less water, cold needs more.
What is the difference between cement and concrete?
Often confused but very different: Cement (Portland cement): Gray powder, binding agent, 10-15% of concrete mix. Comes in 94 lb bags. Types: Type I (general), Type III (fast-setting), Type IV (low heat). Concrete: Mixture of cement + sand + gravel + water. Cement is ingredient, concrete is final product. Analogy: Cement is like flour in cake, concrete is the finished cake. Never use pure cement - too expensive, cracks badly. Mortar: Cement + sand (no gravel), for bricklaying, different from concrete.
How do I measure concrete mix ingredients accurately?
Mixing methods by project size: By volume (buckets): Use same bucket for all materials. 1:2:3 mix = 1 bucket cement, 2 sand, 3 gravel. Easy for small batches. By weight (scale): Most accurate for quality. 94 lb cement bag, 188 lb sand, 282 lb gravel for 1:2:3. Professional method. Ready-mix truck: Order by cubic yard, specify PSI strength. Best for 1+ yards. Batch calculator: 1 cubic yard needs ~4-6 bags cement depending on ratio. One 94 lb cement bag makes ~4.5 cubic feet concrete in 1:2:3 mix.
What aggregate size should I use for concrete?
Aggregate selection affects strength and workability: Fine aggregate (sand): Sharp/concrete sand, not beach/masonry sand. Size: passes 1/4 inches screen. Clean, no clay/silt. Coarse aggregate (gravel/crushed stone): 3/4 inch maximum for most residential (slabs, driveways). 1/2 inch for thin sections (<4 inches). 1-1/2 inch for mass concrete (foundations, large pours). Rule: Max aggregate size = 1/3 slab thickness. Clean, angular stone bonds better than round river rock. Graded mix (various sizes) fills voids better, needs less cement.
Can I mix concrete by hand or do I need a mixer?
Mixing options by quantity: Hand mixing (wheelbarrow/tub): Up to 1-2 cubic feet (3-4 bags). Hard work, inconsistent, use for tiny jobs. Electric mixer (portable): 1-6 cubic feet, good for DIY projects, rentals available. Best for 5-20 bag jobs. Gas mixer (towable): 6-9 cubic feet, contractors, multiple yards over time. Ready-mix truck: 1+ cubic yards, professional quality, consistent, worth cost for larger jobs. Hand mixing technique: Mix dry ingredients first, add water gradually, turn until uniform color (10+ minutes hard work per batch).
What concrete strength (PSI) do I need for different projects?
PSI (pounds per square inch) requirements: 2500 PSI (1:2:4 mix): Residential driveways, patios, sidewalks. Standard for most homeowner projects. 3000 PSI (1:2:3 mix): Garage floors, foundations, footings. Required for most building codes. 3500 PSI (1:1.5:3 mix): Heavy-duty driveways (RVs, trucks), commercial floors, cold climates. 4000-5000 PSI: Structural elements, commercial buildings, bridge decks. Specialty high-strength. Testing: Concrete reaches design strength at 28 days. Reaches 70% strength at 7 days. Curing critical for achieving rated PSI.
How long does concrete take to cure and when can I use it?
Curing timeline and usage: 24-48 hours: Initial set, can walk on carefully, remove forms. Still very weak. 7 days: 70% strength reached, light foot traffic okay, keep moist. Continue curing. 14 days: 90% strength, can drive on (light vehicles), normal use begins. 28 days: Full design strength achieved, heavy loads okay, curing complete. Curing methods: Keep moist (spray daily), cover with plastic, use curing compound, avoid freezing/heat. Hot weather: Cures faster but weaker - keep cool, moist. Cold weather: Cures slower - protect from freezing, insulate, heat if needed. Minimum 7 days moist curing critical for strength and preventing cracks.
What is slump and how do I test concrete consistency?
Slump test measures concrete workability: Procedure: Fill cone (12 inches tall), rod 25 times, lift cone, measure drop. Results: 1-2 inch slump: Very stiff, hard to work, needs vibration. Footings. 3-4 inch slump: Ideal for most work, good balance. Slabs, driveways. 5-6 inch slump: Fluid, easy to pour, slightly weaker. Walls, columns. 7+ inch slump: Too wet, will segregate, lose strength. Field test: Ball test - handful should hold shape but be moldable. Too dry crumbles, too wet runs. Consistency critical - same slump throughout pour for uniform strength. Weather affects ideal slump - adjust accordingly.