Concrete Mix Calculator

Calculate precise concrete mix ratios and quantities for cement, sand, and gravel based on volume and desired strength.

Component volume = (ratio part / total parts) × total cubic feet; Cement bags = cement CF; Sand/Gravel = CF / 27 for yards
2 yards, 1:2:4 mix, 10% waste: 2.2 yards = 59.4 CF. Cement: 8.5 bags (9), Sand: 0.63 CY, Gravel: 1.26 CY, Water: 45 gal

What are the common concrete mix ratios?

Standard mix ratios (cement:sand:gravel by volume): 1:2:3 (M20 grade, 3000 PSI) - High strength for foundations, columns, beams. General purpose construction. 1:2:4 (M15 grade, 2500 PSI) - Medium strength for slabs, driveways, moderate loads. Most common residential. 1:3:6 (M10 grade, 1500 PSI) - Low strength for footings, mass concrete, non-structural. Economy mix. 1:1.5:3 (M25 grade, 3500 PSI) - Very high strength for heavy loads, commercial. Water-cement ratio: 0.4-0.6 by weight (critical for strength).

How much water should I add to concrete mix?

Water-cement ratio determines strength: 0.4 ratio (strongest): 4 gallons per 94 lb bag cement, difficult to work, needs vibration. 0.5 ratio (ideal): 5 gallons per bag, balance of strength and workability, most common. 0.6 ratio (workable): 6 gallons per bag, easier to pour but weaker. Rule: Less water = stronger concrete but harder to work. Too much water weakens concrete significantly (10% extra water = 20% strength loss). Add gradually, test slump (3-5 inch slump ideal). Hot weather needs less water, cold needs more.

What is the difference between cement and concrete?

Often confused but very different: Cement (Portland cement): Gray powder, binding agent, 10-15% of concrete mix. Comes in 94 lb bags. Types: Type I (general), Type III (fast-setting), Type IV (low heat). Concrete: Mixture of cement + sand + gravel + water. Cement is ingredient, concrete is final product. Analogy: Cement is like flour in cake, concrete is the finished cake. Never use pure cement - too expensive, cracks badly. Mortar: Cement + sand (no gravel), for bricklaying, different from concrete.

How do I measure concrete mix ingredients accurately?

Mixing methods by project size: By volume (buckets): Use same bucket for all materials. 1:2:3 mix = 1 bucket cement, 2 sand, 3 gravel. Easy for small batches. By weight (scale): Most accurate for quality. 94 lb cement bag, 188 lb sand, 282 lb gravel for 1:2:3. Professional method. Ready-mix truck: Order by cubic yard, specify PSI strength. Best for 1+ yards. Batch calculator: 1 cubic yard needs ~4-6 bags cement depending on ratio. One 94 lb cement bag makes ~4.5 cubic feet concrete in 1:2:3 mix.

What aggregate size should I use for concrete?

Aggregate selection affects strength and workability: Fine aggregate (sand): Sharp/concrete sand, not beach/masonry sand. Size: passes 1/4 inches screen. Clean, no clay/silt. Coarse aggregate (gravel/crushed stone): 3/4 inch maximum for most residential (slabs, driveways). 1/2 inch for thin sections (<4 inches). 1-1/2 inch for mass concrete (foundations, large pours). Rule: Max aggregate size = 1/3 slab thickness. Clean, angular stone bonds better than round river rock. Graded mix (various sizes) fills voids better, needs less cement.

Can I mix concrete by hand or do I need a mixer?

Mixing options by quantity: Hand mixing (wheelbarrow/tub): Up to 1-2 cubic feet (3-4 bags). Hard work, inconsistent, use for tiny jobs. Electric mixer (portable): 1-6 cubic feet, good for DIY projects, rentals available. Best for 5-20 bag jobs. Gas mixer (towable): 6-9 cubic feet, contractors, multiple yards over time. Ready-mix truck: 1+ cubic yards, professional quality, consistent, worth cost for larger jobs. Hand mixing technique: Mix dry ingredients first, add water gradually, turn until uniform color (10+ minutes hard work per batch).

What concrete strength (PSI) do I need for different projects?

PSI (pounds per square inch) requirements: 2500 PSI (1:2:4 mix): Residential driveways, patios, sidewalks. Standard for most homeowner projects. 3000 PSI (1:2:3 mix): Garage floors, foundations, footings. Required for most building codes. 3500 PSI (1:1.5:3 mix): Heavy-duty driveways (RVs, trucks), commercial floors, cold climates. 4000-5000 PSI: Structural elements, commercial buildings, bridge decks. Specialty high-strength. Testing: Concrete reaches design strength at 28 days. Reaches 70% strength at 7 days. Curing critical for achieving rated PSI.

How long does concrete take to cure and when can I use it?

Curing timeline and usage: 24-48 hours: Initial set, can walk on carefully, remove forms. Still very weak. 7 days: 70% strength reached, light foot traffic okay, keep moist. Continue curing. 14 days: 90% strength, can drive on (light vehicles), normal use begins. 28 days: Full design strength achieved, heavy loads okay, curing complete. Curing methods: Keep moist (spray daily), cover with plastic, use curing compound, avoid freezing/heat. Hot weather: Cures faster but weaker - keep cool, moist. Cold weather: Cures slower - protect from freezing, insulate, heat if needed. Minimum 7 days moist curing critical for strength and preventing cracks.

What is slump and how do I test concrete consistency?

Slump test measures concrete workability: Procedure: Fill cone (12 inches tall), rod 25 times, lift cone, measure drop. Results: 1-2 inch slump: Very stiff, hard to work, needs vibration. Footings. 3-4 inch slump: Ideal for most work, good balance. Slabs, driveways. 5-6 inch slump: Fluid, easy to pour, slightly weaker. Walls, columns. 7+ inch slump: Too wet, will segregate, lose strength. Field test: Ball test - handful should hold shape but be moldable. Too dry crumbles, too wet runs. Consistency critical - same slump throughout pour for uniform strength. Weather affects ideal slump - adjust accordingly.